Sunday, October 25, 2009

Shaukiwan - somewhere in time, Hong Kong

Shaukiwan, a fishing village from the old days even before HK became the British colony. There was no road reaching thru' Shaukiwan and Quarry Bay (or more popularly to Wanchai/Central since Quarry Bay isn't that populated and North Point is a place for swimming) at the very old time and hence there was an old saying "英雄被困筲箕灣"; so at that time the only way to leave this old fishing village is to take sampan to go to Wanchai. My father told me they needed to take a boat to go to Wanchai and Luk Kwok Hotel was on the harbour front and it was so grand to him at that time. So at his late days we brought him to Luk Kwok for buffet, it really meant so much to him from the way he looked at all those old photos. So what made Shaukiwan open to the tycoons in Central, it was when Taikoo dockyard being built (now Taikoo Shing). I was told my father went to North Point for swimming at those old days when there was almost nothing in the east HK. Chai Wan is a place for his school picnic. So Shaukiwan was called from its deep curve bay like a drainer used in Chinese kitchen. Where the eastern corridor is now was the seafront line of Shaukiwan. You will see how deep curve of this bay sheltering thousands of fishing junks and sampans. I still remember that big shelter and actually it was very smelly to me at my kid's time. Before I am losing my memory, I came back to this place for a "somewhere in time".

1. This quilt shop still exists. I bought their hand made quilt cover 35 years ago with my first money earned on some factory outsourcing assignment (haha... very professional term but it's just a watch bracelet work). I still have that quilt cover in my bed room and the black ink I dropped from my careless Chinese calligraphy is still on the quilt. Every time I look at those black spots, it would remind of my primary school time. Amazing right for a quilt to last for 35 years and I keep on throwing it into my washer every week for a 2 hour washing. Then even my Levis 501 of 20 years old now gets torn, this quilt is still very silky. 2. This McDonald's building used to be the Sun Sun Tea House 新新茶居 which I took my first BBQ pork rice.

3. The tram terminal at Shaukiwan and it's the cheapest and most scenic travel route from the east HK to west HK at just HK$2 (US$0.25). 4. Freedom Wonton noodle - it is the shop who launched the ping pong wonton (a wonton sized at a ping pong ball).

5. OK, now turn to Tung Tai Street for the amazing journey of something nostalgic. Lui Tsai Kee snack and dessert - their mini-bowl fins and green bean dessert are very nice. Must try! 6. Kuen Fat restaurant - a highly super extremely recommended restaurant for the old time fishing village style food, like 油鹽水浸蜆 (clam soaked in oil/salty soup),椒鹽九肚魚 (deep fried "nine tummy" fish with chilli/salt),酥炸蟹蚶 (deep fried shrimp/crab balls),黃金虾球 (stir fried prawn in salty egg york),芥蘭炒牛肉 (Kai Lan stir fried with beef). If you go there, better go by 5pm or 11:30am. The environment is very crowded.

7. dim sum at your hands - this one serves very low priced dim sum but taste wise, it's so so. 8. a shop selling fish nets and all the fishing utensil.

9. do you remember in the old days we used this pump for the kerosine burner in our kitchen. 10. snacks in our kids time.

11. do you miss this one - satay fish slices (but artificial fish). 12. this curry shop was opened almost 30 years ago and it was the first curry shop in Shaukiwan.

13/14. On Lee fish ball shops - very famous for those who indulge in fish balls. The one on the left is the 2nd shop and the right is the third. I was told it was a fight between the brothers of On Lee for the genuine shop's name. So you may ask where is the first one? Check the below.

15. Another famous fish ball soup and its stir soy sauce noodle is pretty good. All these shops are often visited by some tycoons and you would notice quite many luxury cars outside in the street. 16. Shaukiwan Gov't primary school - the school for the last "secondary school entrance" public examination. I went to this school for that public exam. and the result was a "disaster" for me as my good result got me delivered to a famous school with lots of rich kids. Later on, I was scared with a good result and even deserted myself for studying, considering those kids at 12-15 years old being labelled by most of the Fathers/Teachers for their families' background. So don't label people for their color, ages, background, sex, race, religion or vice versa without any of these.

17. see that metallic string support in the middle part of the braches of this big tree. The old tree used to be on a soil ground, but when Tung Tai street was visited more frequently, the road got to be in 2 ways and the cement covering around the tree stop this tree's root from breathing. It was actually dying. The tree was said to be over 100 years old. 18. ok, see the corner of this end. The first shop of On Lee is a "mini-cart" street stall over there.

19. The tall bldg. is where all those ship maintenance companies were. This area is called Ah Kung Arm 亞公岩 (Grand father's rock). 20. do you miss this heavy jam cake? It's not for me.

21. This Cafe has been here maybe around 40 years. 22. Kam Wah Street at night, an open market for veggie/fish/poultry.

23. This shop is still here - it has various noodles. 24. Also this one and I used to buy all those dried stuff and sauces....etc.

25. a stationery shop of over 35 years old. 26. Also still here is this old photo studio where my elder generations often visited for a family photo or wedding photo....etc.

27. Hoi See Cake Shop - I believe it's the first shop of Hoi See set up here on Shaukiwan Rd. 25 years ago. 28. this small lane used to be the midnight snack shops of wonton noodle and fish balls.
This electronic shop has been here for more than 50-60 years as learned from some stories told by my aunts.

6 comments:

Stella said...

Wow what a history class and nice tour of Shaukiwan. Thank you SEA for the history which I don't know at all.

This is the place I want to visit and eat and shop as it represents the old HK in my memory.
To me, these kind of old childhood place is more meaningful to visit as there is our growing path and our heart have a special spot for it.

If I only have one day to visit HK, please bring me here instead of the big and new hotels. Hotels are nice but I prefer the old street food and those won ton mid night snack more. Also the eatery in Wanchai when you had your first job is good too. Also, Lee Yuen East West Street and Women Street. I like all street food and street goods. Will like more if I can bargain the price.

in the sea said...

There are still some places which preserve their old charm like my aunt's place in Lo Di Wan of Lamma Island. It is still hard to reach and you need to walk for 40-50 minutes from Yun Shue Wan or taking a sampan from Sok Ku Wan. Yun Shue Wan is now like a hip place for foreigners but the way the locals cook is still the old way of HK fishermen. I am so excited when I see them still use the wood fire stove!

Stella said...

My friend said she saw more places from your blog here than her physical stay in HK. Same to TC's blog.

Anonymous said...

Mr. Sea you need to go to the museum near the end and hill of ah kung arm. It has some old photo of shaukiwan. You told me some story of shaukiwan and you sound like you are proud to be from shaukiwan. Some people think shaukiwan are a poor area. You are happy not in the rich side. From the photo 1 and 2 you have a happy memory from this place. That mean the happy is in your heart, not in your bank account.

in the sea said...

Thanks SS. There are yet more places to explore in HK. Will try to....

Thanks Anonymous 6:06. I am actually very money-minded. I would be so happy if my bank account has more digits. :)

Stella said...

Money minded is normal and not s sin as long as we know how to handle it and not be a slave of it so as to lose sight to other things that money cannot get.